August 5, 2024 - Daily Distance: 21 km - Total Distance: 286 km

We have breakfast at the castle and set off early, knowing that today we face 21 kilometers of walking and the last real climb of our journey.

Before tackling the climb, we unexpectedly come across the ruins of the Church of Santa Maria di Cartignano in town. We didn’t know of its existence, but we are struck by its beauty.

The climb starts with an unpleasant surprise: along a narrow passage, we encounter a large dog determined to block our way. Fortunately, we’re three, and after a tense moment, the dog backs down and lets us pass. Once we overcome this obstacle, we resume the climb, which proves to be quite challenging. Fortunately, the sky is overcast, and the cool air makes the walk more pleasant. The surrounding landscape is stunning, and despite the incline, the beauty of the place gives us the strength to continue. Two deer flee as we pass by – one of the rare encounters with wildlife.

Upon reaching the top, we are greeted by beautiful meadows, but above all, by such a cold breeze that Silvia and Elena immediately cover up: an unexpected sensation after days of intense heat!

We start the descent, singing and listening to music: we know we've passed the hardest part of the day and finally relax. We pass below the village of Collepietro and, upon reaching the Piana di Navelli, we leave the paved road for a dirt path. Here, we encounter an old tratturo well, dug next to a water basin that feeds it. Not far away stands the Church of Santa Maria del Campo, one of the many tratturo churches that dot the plain.

We continue until we reach Navelli, where the long-awaited bar awaits us. I know this place well, having passed through here before during the Cammino di San Tommaso. No arguments: we stop and relax. At the bar, we meet the only two female hikers of our entire journey. Despite numerous encounters with other pilgrimages (including the inevitable one with the Via della Pace), we hadn’t yet met other travelers. Perhaps the heat discouraged many, who preferred to stay at home or seek cooler destinations.

The village is worth a visit. Here, too, the earthquake has caused significant damage, and reconstruction is still underway. We notice signs referencing the referendum between monarchy and republic.

After a well-deserved break, we set off again. Just below the village, on the Piana di Navelli, we spot two tratturo churches: Santa Maria delle Cerulis and Santa Maria delle Grazie. Unfortunately, they are almost completely surrounded by roads. Discouraged, we reflect on how there is no longer any respect for beautiful things.

We have only a few kilometers left to reach our lunch destination: Civitaretenga. Here, we stop to eat the pizzas we had bought. As we prepare, a local gentleman approaches and starts chatting with us. He proudly recounts the story of when he went to Peru to adopt his daughter, looking affectionately at the child playing around us.

After lunch, we get moving again, knowing we need to quicken our pace if we want to reach San Pio delle Camere before evening. We follow a trail I had identified on the map, but it turns out to be too overgrown, so we decide to change course and head toward a dirt road a bit lower down. From there, the path becomes easier until we reach the Church of Santa Maria dei Cinturelli. For me, this is an important stop. Santa Maria dei Cinturelli marks the junction between the Tratturo Magno and the Tratturo Centurelle-Montesecco. Reaching this church means that our journey along the Centurelle-Montesecco has come to an end, and we will now join the Tratturo Magno, heading toward L’Aquila. I have seen Santa Maria dei Cinturelli from afar many times and have always wanted to get there. Today, my dream is finally coming true.

We take the customary photos and resume our journey to San Pio delle Camere. As soon as we arrive in the village, we discover that our room is located in the upper part of the village, which is practically uninhabited due to the earthquake. So, before tackling the final climb, we stop at the bar to refresh ourselves: a break is necessary after such an intense day.