August 1, 2024 - Daily Distance: 18 km - Total Distance: 215 km

We set out while it’s still dark, and Silvia and Paolo are already waiting for us on the street. In a kind gesture, Silvia greets us with hot coffees – such a thoughtful idea!

We begin a long descent towards the Moro Stream bed, first on asphalt and then on a dirt road. A little further on, a group of wild boars, with their young in tow, suddenly crosses our path. The situation could have been dangerous, but fortunately, they passed by without even glancing at us. We got lucky.

Not long after, however, we encounter our first real difficulties. The planned descent follows a gas pipeline route, which, from the satellite images, appeared clear. In reality, it’s overgrown, making our progress exhausting. It’s the first time I’ve found a gas pipeline service road in such poor condition, but we decide to press on. Eventually, we spot a vineyard to our left. We decide to take a detour and try a new path. The dirt road we choose is perfectly clear and leads us toward the stream. However, the closer we get, the more it seems that the crossing to the other side is blocked by thick vegetation. A moment of panic! But, to our great relief, at the bottom of the descent, we find concrete posts that allow us to cross the stream. On the other side, the path is clear.

Feeling refreshed, we climb up the hillside until we reach the paved road. At last, we are on the tratturo. We proceed at a steady pace along a gentle slope that takes us to Orsogna. There’s a bar, and so... we stop! Silvia grumbles, but I’m sure she also appreciates the break.

We set off again, so engrossed in our conversation that we pass right by a beautiful *tratturo* tower without even noticing it. I only realize this now, as I write my diary. What a shame—it was really impressive. However, one thing I do notice is the reappearance of the “Peace Trail” stickers. The mystery deepens.

The first signs for the *Cammino di San Tommaso* (St. Thomas Way) begin to appear, and we’ll keep crossing paths with this trail for the next few days. As we’ve observed, many southern trails follow the old tratturi.

We are now close to Filetto, where a sign at the town entrance announces: “Abruzzo’s Spicy Pepper Capital.” I’d love to stop, maybe to buy some chili peppers, but Silvia holds us back, fearing another stop. Oh well!

We continue on the road almost all the way to San Martino sulla Marrucina. The last stretch is a dirt path with a steep descent followed by an equally steep climb, which leads us to the entrance of the town.

We are exhausted, both from the heat and the elevation gain we’ve faced. We desperately search for a bar, but the only one is in the town center… exactly where we’ll be staying!

As soon as we arrive, the owner looks at me for a moment and then exclaims, "You’ve stayed here before!" His face does seem familiar, but I can’t place it. I check my phone and discover that two years ago, during the *Cammino di San Tommaso*, I stayed at this very place, *Il Ghiro*. Slowly, the memories come back—it’s all due to the fatigue. And in fact, I had really enjoyed my stay, so how had I forgotten?

Unfortunately, Elena is suffering from severe foot pain and decides to skip our usual town tour in the afternoon. After ten days of walking, we’re all beginning to feel the weight of the journey.

That evening, we dine at *Il Ghiro*, where the owner spoils us with delicious food and countless small gestures of care. It’s exactly what we needed to recover! A heartfelt thank you from all of us.

Track of the day