22/08/2025 – Daily distance: 19.3 km – Total distance: 82.1 km

Today begins the second part of the journey, dedicated to the Tratturo Magno. The first two kilometres are just to reach the actual start of the route, a small introduction before the real adventure.

In Marina di San Salvo I discover a bike path running alongside the very busy SS16, the Adriatic highway. The noise of traffic is incessant, but at least the vehicles pass at a distance: it’s not exactly peaceful, but it’s an acceptable compromise.

Arriving at the Trigno River, which marks the border with Molise, the bike path ends abruptly. I look for pedestrian bridges, but there are none; the only option is to face the highway bridge. The shoulder is wide enough and trucks don’t brush past me, but the constant passage of heavy vehicles is nerve-wracking. I can’t wait to leave the road. In fact, this was precisely the reason I had avoided the Tratturo Magno for years.

After 1.5 kilometres of asphalt “torture,” I reach the point indicated on the maps as a deviation toward the coast. But reality is different: a wall of weeds blocks the way, preventing access to the sea.

I had anticipated the problem thanks to satellite maps and already have a plan B: a dirt track that passes under the highway and railway and climbs the hill, running alongside the Montebello tower. The access is closed by a barrier, but there are no prohibition signs. I decide to take the risk: anything to avoid staying on the highway!

The dirt path runs between rows of Mediterranean pines, shaded and pleasant. I pass under the highway and for a moment congratulate myself, until I encounter a new obstacle: the railway underpass is completely overgrown.

I gather my courage. It’s only a few metres, and with some patience I manage to make a passage. But just when I think I’ve made it, I discover the path is flooded. In the darkness I spot blocks of concrete: by jumping from one to another, I finally manage to reach the exit.

On the other side awaits an old asphalt road, with signage and everything. It was probably the access road to the village. Back home, looking at the maps again, I realise that a simpler alternative probably existed under the railway: the one I suggest in the track I provide.

The climb continues and I finally reach the Montebello tower. The little village is completely empty: no cars, a dog wandering alone… the atmosphere is surreal. But the view of the coast makes all the effort worthwhile.

I descend slowly toward the coast, where I have to walk along the SS16 for a few hundred metres before taking a parallel dirt track. Easier said than done: to reach it, I must jump over a high guardrail and descend the embankment. While preparing for this circus-like manoeuvre, a man on the other side of the road points out a gap in the vegetation. He disappears and reappears shortly after on the dirt path: there’s a semi-hidden underpass I would never have found on my own.

The dirt path continues under the shade of the pines: beautiful… until it is blocked by construction work. On the other side, the future bike path is visible, but being summer, no one is working. Again, I climb over the fence and resume walking.

The route leads to the crossing of the Tecchio Stream, where there should be a pedestrian bridge. Too bad the deck is missing. The stream is small, but the banks are high: I give up. The only solution is to enter the pinewood and reach the sea, even though I didn’t want to find myself among bathers and swimsuits. Never mind.

To my surprise, no one seems to notice this strange guy with a backpack walking along the shore. Apparently, nothing raises eyebrows anymore.

I arrive at the Tecchio Stream, take off my shoes, and cross it quickly. The water is freezing! I stay a few minutes with my feet immersed, enjoying the coolness. A small tip for travellers: if you find the bike path blocked, head straight for the marina to save time.

Finally, I reach Marina di Petacciato and face the usual asphalt climb to the village. No particular obstacles: only the heat keeps me company on this “pleasant walk” (so to speak!).

One last note: upon arrival a car stops and the driver gets out to offer me a Red Bull.
— Come on, you’ve made it!

Track of the day