August 7th, 2018 - There is no trace of the first day's stage on either the IGM maps or satellite images, so the information available comes from alternative sources and is very fragmented. The tratturo started in the locality of Campomizzo, about 5 km north of Pescasseroli, within what is currently the Abruzzo National Park. Its route followed the current state road Marsicana, or SS83, to Pescasseroli. At the city, it crossed the Sangro River to go to its left and continued along the "Colli Bassi" foothills. The section after the river crossing is still passable for a couple of kilometers before rejoining the SS83.

Since the first 5 km can only be traveled by using the SS83, I decide to start directly from Pescasseroli. The ancient path of the tratturo is occupied by the road, so I have prepared three different routes to choose from directly on site. The first one goes through the valley but may require crossing private land. The second one climbs the "Colli Bassi" and passes through the Cornacchia Valley and the Bear Valley. The third one passes on the other side of the Sangro valley, at the foot of the "Coppi della Madonna."

Upon arriving in Pescasseroli, the signs of the Park Authority indicate that the Colli Bassi trail was used by shepherds as an alternate route when the valley trail was not passable... the decision is made, tomorrow we start uphill!

Pescasseroli is a pleasant tourist town, used as a starting point for excursions in the park. A lot of people, many backpacks and hiking boots... all in all, a nice place, although I personally think of the mountains as a less crowded place. I think I'm the only one with such a long hike in mind. I spend the afternoon and the evening wandering around the village: I'm still fresh and I can afford it, I doubt I will be able to do the same in the coming days, after the long walks.

The next day, I wake up with a beautiful sun and the excitement that accompanies the beginning of a new journey. The climb towards the Colli Bassi is on an asphalt road, but as soon as I reach the Cornacchia Valley, a trail starts. The view of the valley is spectacular. The sun just risen makes the wet grass shine from the intense rains of the previous day: the colors are stunning. On the other hand, in a short time, I am wet up to my knees. It doesn't matter, there's the sun so I'll dry off quickly.

The trail is marked by the CAI (Club Alpino Italiano), however, the signs leave much to be desired, so I lose my way several times. In the end, I decide to rely on my GPS track and the choice proves to be successful.

The trail ends on the Marsicana road, which I have to follow for one kilometer until I reach Opi, a beautiful village perched on a hill, where I find a new sign from the Park Authority that provides me with further information about the "tratturo". Apparently, the cattle track continued along the current path of the Marsicana road, but the shepherds were also used to take a deviation, still usable, passing through the Frassineto hill and the subsequent Fondillo valley. I choose this alternative to avoid the road.

The ascent towards the Frassineto hill is on a comfortable path paved with stones and flanked by dry stone walls. Its appearance is likely to closely resemble that of the past. After reaching the Frassineto hill, you'll be surrounded by a delightful beech forest before descending towards the Fondillo valley, where you can follow an old secondary path. As you reach the end of the Fondillo valley and approach the Marsicana national road, you'll notice the remains of a Samnite necropolis.

Unfortunately, for the next 4 kilometers, the SS83 road cannot be avoided. Initially, the broad roadside and the sparse traffic make the walk enjoyable, but as time passes, the number of cars increases and the road becomes narrower, forcing me to walk on it. When I finally enter the Camosciara Natural Reserve, I heave a sigh of relief!

Luckily, the "tratturo" goes through the park all the way to Civitella Alfedena. You'll need to climb up one of the numerous available paths. The park is crowded with noisy tourists so, to find some peace and quiet, I opt for the less frequented trail.

A watering trough on the pass marks the beginning of the descent towards Civitella Alfedena. The village is a little gem. A fenced park has been established at the border of the park, where wolves are kept in semi-free conditions and looked after by the reserve personnel due to their incomplete self-sufficiency.

Track of the day