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August 26, 2022 - Got up before dawn once again. Two obstacles are expected for the day: crossing the Biferno River and, immediately after, climbing a hill that I have the feeling may not be passable. We'll see.
I start uphill to reconnect with the tratturo at the point where I should have left it yesterday. The dirt road I chose so as to stay away from asphalt is not exactly clean, but it is passable without too much difficulty. The air is pleasantly cool.
I reach the tratturo and ride it uphill: what I find is a comfortable dirt road, nothing like the yesterday's bumpy trail. Thinking of the day before, I turn to observe the part of the tratturo that I was unable to travel: apart from a small road at the beginning, which however soon enters a field, it is not crossed by any other tracks. The landslide has completely closed the passage. Perhaps in the future...
I continue to climb until I reach the top at the crossing of the SP159. What awaits me is a long comfortable descent to the Biferno River where, according to satellite maps, there should be a ford. Along the entire descent, I keep looking at the hill in front of me to understand if the tratturo is passable. I really wish I were wrong, but it doesn't seem so.
After passing through an underpass of the SS647, I go in search of the ford, but the vegetation is perfectly closed everywhere: there is no way through. Furthermore, I can hear the flow of a lot of water beyond the plants. I have already crossed the Biferno in the past by traveling other tratturos and I have always found it swollen with water, even in the hottest and least rainy summers. I don't have many alternatives: I have to move south and reach the first useful bridge, even if this means extending the route by 3,5 kilometers. It's an eventuality that I had taken into account.
When I finally reach the bridge, I have confirmation that too much water flows in the riverbed: I could not have easily forded it. I take a dirt road to reach the point where I should have found myself immediately after the hypothetical ford and go in search of the entrance to the tratturo. Unfortunately, I have confirmation that it is full of tall weeds. There is nothing to be done.
I climb the hill along the edge of a recently plowed field that runs alongside the tratturo. I have only one thought in my head. I know that at the top of the climb, there is a farm where the following equation applies: farm + path where no one passes = dogs running free!
When I reach the farm, I discover that the tratturo passes just below the courtyard level. I stay as low as possible so as not to be seen. There is not a sound, and I manage to climb the hill unscathed. "You're still the same scaredy-cat, you made yourself so many problems, and in the end, there was no dog!" As I am thinking this, a small dog inside the courtyard starts barking. You know those small and annoying dogs? Yes, one of those! Immediately a second dog, a bit larger, joins in the commotion, followed by another even larger one... Soon, the courtyard is full of dogs of all sizes, some even come onto the tratturo, but no one feels like climbing the hill to reach me. It went well. Gradually the dogs stop barking, except for the little one who has decided to destroy his vocal cords. What I think of him is censored material.
After the farmhouse, continuing up the hill, I find the tratturo full of weeds, but still passable. About halfway through, there's an electrified wire for animals crossing the path. It shouldn't be there. Since hardly anyone passes through this part of the trail, it's evidently considered private property. At least it should be kept tidy!
Once I reach and cross SP157, the climb becomes easier and a clear path on the tratturo allows me to travel without difficulty. The temperature starts to rise, but I'm almost at my destination. The detour towards Morrone del Sannio leads to a steep climb. However, the section of the trail that I have to face has recently been cleared, so despite the effort, I proceed smoothly.
The arrival in the village is charming. The houses have been recently renovated, and everything is orderly and clean. It's possible that 2022 earthquake funds have also arrived here. Considering the result, I must say that they were well spent. I head towards the B&B, but first I stop at the bar in front of it to get something cold. In front of the bar, in the shade, there are two men drinking a cold beer and chatting amicably.
After settling into my room and taking a shower, washing my clothes, and resting, I go out for a walk around the village. In the bar in front, the same two people are drinking a new beer.
The village is truly delightful. Some people are setting up the stage for the next day's festival. Unfortunately, I will be far away. When I return to my room, I notice that the two characters I spotted are still there... with an inevitable beer in hand!
It's evening and time to eat. I look into the pizzeria in front of the B&B and ask if they have anything other than pizza. I've been eating carbohydrates for days, and I'd like a change. The owner tells me they have very fresh fish and lists its benefits, boasting as if it's the best of the best. When he finishes praising the goodness of the fish, he says, "So, do you want a pizza? Look, we make a delicious one!" If he weren't serious, I'd say he's teasing me.
Needless to say, sitting in the same place, there are the usual two men with their usual beer. The only variation: they've ordered a pizza!