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August 2, 2024 - Daily Distance: 22 km - Total Distance: 237 km
Today's stage promises to be challenging: 22 km with a significant elevation gain. However, I have already traversed several sections in the past during the "Cammino di San Tommaso", and I know they are beautiful, surrounded by lush green forests. We’re counting on the shade of the trees to accompany us along the way and set off.
We start with a gentle descent on asphalt, which we soon leave to proceed through the fields. The path is pleasant until the vegetation blocks our way: an unexpected obstacle. Silvia finds a solution by suggesting a detour that adds only a little distance and leads us to what was supposed to be an industrial area. "Supposed to be," because although the infrastructure is in place, there are few buildings, and nature is slowly reclaiming its space.
We happily leave that area and dive back into the countryside. We start seeing signs for both the "Cammino di San Tommaso" and the "Cammino di Celestino". The route is almost mandatory for crossing the Apennines, which is why it's used by various pilgrimages.
The ascent becomes steep. We pass through a small cluster of houses and find a solitary sheep wandering in the street: I’m not sure who is more surprised, us or the sheep.
Arriving at the next cluster of houses, a small miracle happens: a local couple offers us coffee. But not only that—they also provide drinks and delicious "ferratelle," typical local sweets. We chat pleasantly while gratefully devouring everything.
Revitalized by the stop, we continue the climb. Today, the vegetation is truly our ally, and the trail through the forest is very pleasant. During the descent, we glimpse the ruins of the Polegro tower through the trees, reminding us that we’ve entered the Maiella National Park: for a while, we’ll be within its boundaries. After a few kilometers of greenery, we finally reach the Abbey of San Liberatore a Maiella: a true masterpiece that alone makes the effort of the stage worthwhile. We stop at a bar to refresh ourselves, take a nap in the shade of the trees, and the girls take the opportunity to cool their feet in the nearby Alento River. The pace today is decidedly more relaxed than usual, but the day is so pleasant that we take full advantage.
A sign informs us that the "Cammino della Pace" passes through here: apparently, it’s following us! We resume our journey and, following a path, reach the base of Castel Menardo, a fortress now in ruins but still hinting at its former grandeur. We’re tired, and no one has the strength to climb, but the visit would be worth it.
It’s now only a short distance to the Basilica of the Holy Face of Manoppello, or rather, the bar next to the hotel! We are definitely fatigued, but it’s a pleasant kind of tiredness.
After visiting the Holy Face image, we take the descent that will lead us to the town. Yes, you heard that right, this time the arrival is downhill!
Track of the day