July 30, 2024 - Daily Distance: 22 km - Total Distance: 175 km

Today's stage is long and could pose some challenges, which is why the alarm goes off at 4:00 am. However, our concerns turn out to be unfounded: the day flows better than expected, with a pleasant breeze accompanying us throughout the journey, while the feared obstacles dissolve into nothing.

Once again, we witness the sunrise as we’re already on the move. On the horizon, the silhouette of the Maiella draws ever closer, and today we can see it clearly.

We descend towards the tratturo along secondary roads until we reach it near the bridge over the Sinello River. From there, the path begins to climb, first on dirt tracks through the fields, and then on asphalt. Although we’re not certain, it’s likely that we are following the ancient route of the tratturo.

Midway through the stage, we receive an unexpected offer from the garden of a house: a coffee. How could we refuse? The owner, Carlo Felice, welcomes us with great hospitality. We learn that he moved here from Genoa thirty years ago, seeking peace and quiet. With enthusiasm, he tells us about his passions, especially for herbal infusions: his kitchen is filled with jars of natural preparations, remedies for all sorts of ailments. As we chat, one of his cats takes a liking to Silvia’s backpack and starts playing with it happily.

As we say our goodbyes, Carlo Felice’s dog gives us one last cheerful moment. He approaches with a stone in his mouth, eager to play. I start by throwing it, and he happily retrieves it… for Elena. Another throw, and this time he brings it to Silvia. The dog shares his attention equally, seeking friendship from all of us.

We leave Carlo Felice behind, and with him, the tratturo as well: we divert towards Atessa. Just two kilometers from the town, we find a bar and decide to support the local economy with a beer. Once again, we attract the curiosity of the patrons: everyone wants to know about our journey. The destination, L’Aquila, seems incredibly far to them, but it’s our starting point in Foggia that causes the most astonishment.

The accommodation in Atessa deserves a special mention: I booked a B&B located inside the town’s castle to offer my travel companions a unique experience. The host, Loris, is a young and friendly landlord, and the place exceeds our expectations. There’s just one small hitch: no stamp! Panic strikes us "transhumants"—what will we do?

After a bit of rest, we take a stroll around Atessa, which we unanimously elect as the most beautiful town we’ve encountered so far. While exploring the historic center, we are approached by the Town Councillor for Culture, who invites us to a book presentation. Taking advantage of the opportunity, and with a bit of boldness, we ask her who might have a stamp in town. She doesn’t hesitate and brings us directly to the town hall’s official stamp. Now, on our credential next to “Atessa,” we proudly have a genuine institutional seal!

Track of the day